Introduction: Graphics Card Framework for Crypto Mining
This is a quick framework I scrapped together to hold some toegevoegd graphics cards while I test them for mining Ethereum tho’ it should work longer term setups spil well. I just go overheen the key decision steps about clearances and spacing since the vormgeving is ordinary enough to assemble and modify for different setups.
Some background you are free to skip if you don’t care/already know:
CryptoCurrency mining has had a big resurgence te popularity, especially among people that have never done it before. Ethereum and ZCash are two coins that have become profitable lately driving the national stock shortages of AMD RX Four and Five series upper tier graphics cards (the best price/spectacle ratio for mining said coins). I have some rx 570s, but GTX 1060s are providing mij about 24MH/s and running at a breezy 58C for $20 less vanaf card so I may switch course ter the future
Photo Credit: Bitnewsbot.com “What is the Ethereum difficulty bomb?”
Step 1: Programma Clearances
Before you start, determine how many cards you are going to waterput into the framework, and based on how hot they tend to run you can determine the necessary spacing (I am presently using MSI and ASUS GTX 1060s and chose Four” spacing inbetween cards).
An significant distinction is whether you project to waterput your motherboard underneath the rack or not. Putting it underneath the rack requires more vertical clearance, so just raise up the gams an toegevoegd four inches to get the necessary clearance if you choose to go that route.
If you don’t want to use a wooden slat spacer under the cards you can substitute the Four.Five” dropdown measurement with Four.Four” intead
Step Two: Mounting Tapkast
Wij commence out with a chunk of Trio/Four” Aluminum L channel. Since I am making a Four card setup I need 3×4″ (spaces inbetween cards) + 2×3″ (spaces on the completes) = an Legal” chunk.
Rekentuig cases and standoffs normally use #6-32 screws, so I followed this convention and used a 0.1470″ drill bit followed by a 6-32 tapkast. I placed a card on the L side to measure off my slots, but make sure your fuckholes are 0.16″ away from the edge to ensure the graphics cards’ mounting plate fits flush
Step Three: Rear Feet
For the rear feet I used some scrap that wasgoed laying around, the length is the only driving dimension spil long spil you make it flush to your side panels and go after clearances.
I used a miter eyed to cut my Two” lengths for the rear feet and then sanded the rough edges with 120 and grit sandpaper
Step Four: Surplus of the Wood
Proceed following your project for the surplus of the wood and screw it all together with wood screws (make sure to predrill to avoid splintering).
I chose to assemble everything except the rear feet very first. Pin your chunks flush to keep the lump even.
Step Five: Fastening the Mounting Buffet
Drill slots ter the completes of the mounting brochure and link it to the vooraanzicht posts with a last set of woodscrews.
I sanded the top face of the aluminum with 400 grit sandpaper to make it have a nicer surface, this is totally unnecessary but it looks so much better 🙂
Step 6: Card Spacers
Depending on what PCIe risers you have there can be up to a millimeter of variation te height, so I used a 2mm balsa wood spacer to make up the last bit of height to support my risers.
Step 7: Add Your Cards and Mine
That’s it! Just waterput your cards and spacers to get began. If you don’t have passive cooling for the part of the slagroom you will be mining ter I strongly recommend adding mounts for some PC ventilatoren on the framework (I’d be glad to do a guide for that too)